DIY HO locomotive test stand

This is a part of Model train nostalgia site.

Introduction

A locomotive test stand is an expensive piece of equipment that allows a locomotive to run while it is stationary. Fortunately, there are methods to build it yourself, and here I present a six-axle locomotive test stand buiding method that is based in part on this (now defunct) spanish-language website.

There are two versions of the build. The first, newer method is much simpler but requires 3D printing of the bearing holder. In the second, older and more complicated method, the bearing holder is constructed from elements bought at the hardware shop.

The essential element of the build is the terminal block. A terminal block consists of insulation block and 12 metal tubes that can be extracted out of it. Each metal tube has two screw holes perpendicular to the central hole. You can buy the bearings and the optional copper sheet on Ebay and AliExpress, while you can buy the other parts at a hardware store.

Method using 3D-printed bearing holder

The required resources are:

The total cost of the required resources is about €15 plus the cost of 3D printing, which is about €2 in terms of filament.

[test stand 1]

The pictures below show the final assembly of one wheel support and the finished test stand.

[test stand 2] [test stand 3]

Method using constructed bearing holder

The required resources are:

The total cost of the required resources is about €20.

[test stand 4]

The pictures below show the final assembly of one wheel support and the finished test stand.

[test stand 5] [test stand 6]

Choice of parts and the complications of building

[test stand 7]

As already mentioned, the design of a test stand must begin with the choice of terminal block, as they come in different sizes. The variations are limited, because even with different manufacturers, all the essential dimensions of the various products are usually the same. Below I show the most important dimensions and their values for three typical products.

typeMHDN
AM3.03.5 mm8.0 mm4.0 mm
BM3.54.0 mm10.0 mm5.5 mm
CM4.05.0 mm11.0 mm6.5 mm

[test stand 8]

The points to be considered are:

There are also two special considerations:

I chose the metal tube type B, and cheap 4 mm × 8 mm × 2 mm bearings which means that the diameter of the inner bearing ring (4.0 mm) does not fit perfectly to the screw (3.5 mm). Normally this is not a problem, but in order to get as precise build as possible, I took a 0.2 mm thick copper sheet, made small rings and put them in between. As for the washers, the only reliable solution I found was to take washers for M3 screws and increase the inner diameter from 3.2 mm to 3.5 mm by drilling.